FITTING STAINLESS STEEL BONNET HINGES
AND ALIGNING BONNET
Courtesy of Norman Farmer
(aka GeraldTVR or NFarmer)
|The Hinge Set - details available from Norman Farmer|
The hinge set has been loosely assembled to ensure that all the bits are present
Please note the hinge bolt, A, will probably need cutting to length. Also now has two lock nuts to limit lateral movement
I would recommend that you use loctite on the rose joint and lock washer, B, for additional security.
The studding, C, is also over length and you might need to shorten.
Please note the rose joint is maintenance free with a self lubricating Bronze liner - no grease nipple required.
|Position in the Engine Bay|
Please remember its an arcane art not a science and you follow these guidelines at your own peril.
1 Remove the bonnet locking pins from the bonnet itself so it cannot be locked closed.
2 Fit the new hinges one side at a time and its important to take the weight of the bonnet while changing. The two long bolts which act as pivots will need probably cutting to length with a pair of locking nuts inboard to ensure the bonnet doesn’t move sideways.
While doing this I would remove the front inner wheel arch for ease of access. I would also remove the rear arches until the job is finished so you can get to the fixing nuts of the bonnet locking pins in an emergency and you cant release the bonnet.
3 Use the adjustments on the hinge to get a neat fit of the bonnet shut lines at this stage.
This will take some time as when you change one setting it will throw out one of the others.
4 Next pull back the bonnet release handle under the dash and tie it back to the steering wheel with a length of wire so the bonnet retaining catches are held open.
5 Replace ONE retaining pin and cover the hole into which it fits with a length of masking tape. Apply something to the pointy end of the retaining pin (I used some dark emulsion paint because I knew it would be easy to remove) and gently lower the bonnet so the painted pointy bit just touches the masking tape. Open the bonnet and see where the mark is in relation to the hole and adjust the retaining pin and repeat until the marking is approximately in the centre of the hole. Remove the masking tape and GENTLY close the bonnet (the catch is still retained open), the pin should go into the hole without catching. If it doesn’t then you just have play around with the pin position until it will. I practice I found the pin had to be very slightly offset to the ‘north’ of the hole to achieve this. The bonnet should now ‘bounce’ on the spring of the retaining pin freely.
6 Crossing every finger now release the retaining catch and try the bonnet release for real on the one pin. It should release OK, if not tie back the release lever and tug and shake gently in all directions until it pops open (this is why you do one side at a time). Also if all else fails its just possible to get a spanner to the retaining nut of the pin to free the bonnet as long as you removed the rear wheel arch.
7 Once the first side is working fine repeat on the other side.
Its not a quick job the first time I did it, it took two frustrating days and in total I had to repeat the exercise again to be satisfied.